Tokyo has more Michelin stars than any city on earth, but what I love most is the shokunin spirit, where a ramen chef who spent 20 years perfecting a single broth gets the same respect as a kaiseki master.
How should you spend 48 hours eating in Tokyo? Start day one with breakfast at Tsukiji Outer Market, tsukemen at Fuunji and a counter omakase dinner. Spend day two on kissaten coffee, counter tempura, wagyu and kaiseki at RyuGin. Book the top counters weeks or months ahead through your hotel concierge, arrive on time, and don't tip.
Key facts
- Reservations: essential at the good places. Book weeks or months ahead; some counters only take bookings through hotel concierges or regulars.
- Tipping: not expected in Japan.
- Best months: late March to April for cherry blossom, November for autumn color.
- Our trip: the Japan Experience, eight days in Tokyo with a Tsukiji sushi breakfast and an Asakusa food walk, on the waitlist while dates are set.
The 48-Hour Itinerary
Day 1
Photo: Frank from 5 AM Ramen / Unsplash
- 7:30 AM: Tsukiji Outer Market, tamagoyaki and a sushi breakfast
- 12:00 PM: Fuunji in Shinjuku for its famous tsukemen
- 3:00 PM: Isetan's depachika food hall
- 7:00 PM: a counter omakase dinner, piece after piece
The most famous sushi counters in Tokyo are very hard to book, and some only take reservations through hotel concierges or regulars. We work through the concierge so you get a great seat without the stress.
Day 2
Photo: Yosuke Ota / Unsplash
- 8:00 AM: kissaten coffee at Chatei Hatou
- 12:30 PM: tempura at a counter, cooked one piece at a time
- 3:00 PM: wagyu at Yoroniku
- 7:30 PM: kaiseki at RyuGin
The Unwritten Rules
Photo: Pema G. Lama / Unsplash
- Reservations: essential at the good places. Book weeks or months ahead.
- Arrival: be on time. Truly on time.
- Photography: ask first. Some counters don't allow photos.
- Tipping: not expected in Japan.
- Leftovers: try to finish what you're served.
In Tokyo, the bond between chef and diner is close to sacred, and following the rules is part of the pleasure.
For the bigger picture, read how Japan changed my idea of luxury, and if you're adding a few days in Kyoto, my Kyoto temples guide.
Our Japan Experience is eight days in Tokyo, built around neighborhoods and food. Book a free consultation for Tokyo reservations.
Wine & Dine
Wine & Dine
Wine & Dine