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The BELUGAby Claire B. Soares
Eating and Drinking in Portugal: A Luxury Culinary GuideBack to BlogWine & Dine

Eating and Drinking in Portugal: A Luxury Culinary Guide

Claire B. SoaresUpdated October 3, 202610 min read

If you think Portuguese food is just bacalhau and pastéis de nata, you're in for a happy surprise. Portugal belongs on the list with France, Italy and Spain as one of Europe's great food countries, and it comes without the attitude.

What should you eat and drink in Portugal? Start with port and Douro reds, Alentejo wines and crisp Vinho Verde, then bacalhau, arroz de marisco, polvo à lagareiro, Porto's francesinha and a warm pastel de nata. Portugal grows more than 250 native grapes, so the wine list alone is worth the trip.

Key facts

  • Wine regions: Douro Valley, Alentejo, Vinho Verde, Dão and Setúbal.
  • Must-eat dishes: bacalhau, arroz de marisco, polvo à lagareiro and francesinha.
  • The famous tart: Pastéis de Belém has used its recipe since 1837.
  • Caviar trip: the Portugal Experience includes Casa de Angola, Taberna Moderna, a Lisbon vineyard day, a Douro lunch by Pedro Lemos and dinner at The Yeatman.

The Wine

Rows of oak wine barrels under a white vaulted ceiling in a Portuguese wineryPhoto: Caviar in the Air

Portugal grows a huge number of native grape varieties, often counted at more than 250, which gives its wines real variety. While everyone crowds Burgundy and Tuscany, the Douro, Alentejo, Dão and Vinho Verde are making excellent wine at gentle prices.

Portuguese Wine Regions at a Glance

RegionSignature StyleTop Experience
Douro ValleyPort, full-bodied redsRiver cruise tastings
AlentejoRich reds, whitesEstate vineyard stays
Vinho VerdeLight, crisp, lightly sparklingMinho countryside tours
DãoElegant, age-worthy redsMountain cellar visits
SetúbalMoscatel dessert winesPeninsula day trips

The Seafood Is Next Level

Baked white fish with small roasted potatoes at a restaurant in PortugalPhoto: Caviar in the Air

On this coast, seafood shows up at nearly every meal. Portugal eats more fish per person than almost anywhere in Europe.

Must-Eat Dishes

Bacalhau. Dried salt cod, said to have a recipe for every day of the year. Bacalhau à Brás (shredded with eggs and potatoes) is the easy way in.

Arroz de Marisco. Portuguese seafood rice, soupy and rich with shrimp, clams and sometimes lobster. Paella's cousin, and arguably better.

Polvo à Lagareiro. Roasted octopus with olive oil and potatoes. Simple perfection when done right.

Francesinha. Porto's signature sandwich: layers of meat under melted cheese and a spicy tomato-beer sauce. It isn't subtle or healthy, and you should order it anyway.

Pastel de Nata: A Cultural Institution

Tray of golden Portuguese pastéis de nata custard tarts with caramelized topsPhoto: Nick Fewings / Unsplash

The custard tart traces back to the monks of the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém. The best-known version comes from Pastéis de Belém, which has used its recipe since 1837. Every bakery has its own take, and hunting for your favorite is half the fun.

How We Eat in Portugal

Board of sliced Portuguese cheese and cured ham at a winery lunch in PortugalPhoto: Caviar in the Air

Our Portugal Experience is built around the table: an Angolan-Portuguese dinner at Casa de Angola, paired wines at Taberna Moderna, a Lisbon vineyard day, a Douro lunch by Michelin-starred chef Pedro Lemos, and a farewell dinner at The Yeatman.

Planning the wine side? Read my Porto and Douro Valley guide, then my Lisbon luxury travel guide for where to stay between meals.

Book your culinary trip. You deserve a table where someone else did all the planning.

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About the Author

Claire B. Soares

Claire B. Soares

Founder & Travel Expert

6X Condé Nast Traveler Top Travel Specialist with 65+ countries visited across all 7 continents.

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