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The BELUGAby Claire B. Soares
San Sebastián: The Greatest Food City You've Never Heard OfBack to BlogWine & Dine

San Sebastián: The Greatest Food City You've Never Heard Of

Claire B. SoaresUpdated October 3, 20268 min read

One of the highest numbers of Michelin stars per person on Earth. A pintxos culture that turns bar-hopping into high art. And La Concha beach right in the middle of town.

The city's txokos, private gastronomic societies where members cook and eat together, are a tradition that goes back to the 19th century. Food here isn't a hobby. It's part of who people are.

San Sebastián is worth the trip for food alone. Spend your evenings on a pintxos crawl through the Old Town with a glass of txakoli at each bar, then save one night for a Michelin table like Arzak, Mugaritz, Martín Berasategui or Akelarre. Stay on La Concha bay at Hotel Maria Cristina or Villa Favorita.

Key facts

  • Where: the Basque coast of northern Spain, on La Concha bay.
  • Size: fewer than 200,000 people, with one of the highest counts of Michelin stars per person anywhere.
  • The local drink: txakoli, a lightly sparkling white wine.
  • Where to stay: Hotel Maria Cristina, Villa Favorita, or the Akelarre Hotel above the sea.
  • Caviar trip: planned privately for you, on its own or as part of a wider Spain trip.

The Pintxos Crawl

Glass of txakoli beside plates of pintxos on a bar counter in San SebastiánPhoto: Raúl Mermans García / Unsplash

  • La Cuchara de San Telmo: Hot, cooked-to-order plates like foie gras and risotto
  • Ganbara: Wild mushrooms and txangurro (spider crab) tartlet
  • Bar Nestor: The famous tomato salad and steak, with a tortilla that sells out
  • A Fuego Negro: Creative and modern
  • Txepetxa: Anchovies, every way you can imagine

The rule: order one or two pintxos per bar, have a glass of txakoli, and move on. Five bars makes a perfect evening.

The Michelin Circuit

San Sebastián and La Concha bay seen from Monte Igueldo above the Bay of BiscayPhoto: Alejandra Cifre González / Unsplash

  • Arzak: Juan Mari and Elena Arzak's laboratory of Basque innovation
  • Mugaritz: Andoni Luis Aduriz's provocative, boundary-pushing cooking
  • Martín Berasategui: Technical perfection in Lasarte-Oria, just outside the city
  • Akelarre: Pedro Subijana's coastal elegance with Bay of Biscay views

Several of these restaurants hold three stars, and all of them are a short drive from the city.

Where to Stay

Sailboats on La Concha bay below the hills and rooftops of San SebastiánPhoto: Quick PS / Unsplash

  • Hotel Maria Cristina: Belle Époque grandeur by the Urumea River
  • Villa Favorita: A boutique villa on La Concha promenade
  • Akelarre Hotel: Rooms and a spa above Pedro Subijana's restaurant, looking out to sea

San Sebastián pairs beautifully with the rest of the country. See our guide to Spain beyond Barcelona, or add a few slow nights in Andalusia's palace hotels.

Book a free consultation to plan your Basque food trip.

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About the Author

Claire B. Soares

Claire B. Soares

Founder & Travel Expert

6X Condé Nast Traveler Top Travel Specialist with 65+ countries visited across all 7 continents.

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