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The BELUGAby Claire B. Soares
Morocco Changed My Palette: Color, Riads and Mint Tea in the MedinasBack to BlogPersonal Story

Morocco Changed My Palette: Color, Riads and Mint Tea in the Medinas

Claire B. SoaresUpdated October 8, 20269 min read

I thought I knew color. Then Morocco rewired my whole idea of beauty.

Is Morocco worth it for a luxury traveler? Yes. Morocco gives you some of the most beautiful hotels in Africa, riads built around tiled courtyards and fountains, and a culture you can taste, hear and touch in every medina. Go in spring or fall, base yourself in a Marrakech riad, and add a night under the desert stars.

Key facts

  • Best months: March to May and September to November, when temperatures are most comfortable.
  • Where to stay in Marrakech: Royal Mansour, La Mamounia, Amanjena or Selman Marrakech.
  • Desert: Scarabeo Camp in the Agafay, about an hour from Marrakech. The big golden dunes are farther, at Merzouga or Erg Chigaga.
  • Caviar trip:The Morocco Experience, 9 days through Marrakech, the Sahara and Fez. It's on the waitlist while dates are set.

This is the country that taught me luxury isn't always thread count and bubbles. Sometimes it's a centuries-old riad with hand-carved plaster walls, a glass of mint tea poured from an absurd height by a man who learned the ritual from his grandfather, and the call to prayer drifting over streets that have barely changed in hundreds of years.

Why Morocco Deserves Your Attention

Steep whitewashed and blue stairway between houses in Chefchaouen, MoroccoPhoto: Zarouri Hicham / Unsplash

Morocco's luxury hotel scene has grown up fast. The country some people still picture as a backpacker stop now has some of the most beautiful hospitality in Africa.

The Riad Revolution

Let me tell you about Royal Mansour Marrakech. It's owned by King Mohammed VI, and it's built like a small medina of its own. Each "room" is a private riad over several floors, with its own rooftop plunge pool and a butler.

Zellige mosaic tilework below carved plaster and calligraphy in a Moroccan palacePhoto: Abdou Faiz / Unsplash

What stays with you isn't the opulence. It's the zellige, hand-cut geometric mosaics that take master craftsmen a very long time to set.

At Caviar in the Air, we plan trips that honor the heritage behind the beauty. In Morocco, that means understanding why so much traditional decoration sticks to geometry and calligraphy, why the courtyards have fountains, and why riads face inward instead of out to the street.

Marrakech: Where Ancient Meets Avant-Garde

Jemaa el-Fnaa square and the Marrakech medina at golden hour with a minaret

Marrakech runs at full volume. Jemaa el-Fnaa at sunset is sensory overload in the best way: snake charmers, storytellers, orange juice sellers, and smoke rising from a hundred food stalls.

A short drive from the medina you'll find MACAAL, a contemporary African art museum that would feel at home in Chelsea or Shoreditch.

Our Marrakech Essentials

  • Royal Mansour: the high point of Moroccan hospitality
  • La Mamounia: Churchill's favorite haunt, now with a beautiful spa
  • Amanjena: Aman's Moorish retreat outside the city
  • Selman Marrakech: Arabian horses and a long reflecting pool, pure cinema

The Desert at Night

Glowing bell tents under a bright moon at a desert camp near MarrakechPhoto: David Goldman / Unsplash

The desert at night is its own color story. Scarabeo Camp sits in the Agafay, the stony desert about an hour outside Marrakech, and its tents look like something out of a Wes Anderson film. Arrive around sunset and you'll watch the hills go from gold to amber to deep purple.

Then the stars come out. With so little light around you, you see stars you didn't know existed. (If you want the big golden dunes, that's the Sahara proper at Merzouga or Erg Chigaga, a much longer drive. My Sahara luxury camping guide walks you through the choice.)

What Black Travelers Need to Know

Morocco is a Muslim-majority country with a complicated relationship to Blackness. Moroccans range from light-skinned northerners to dark-skinned communities in the south, and the legacy of the trans-Saharan slave trade means there are racial dynamics most travel guides won't mention.

Here's what I tell my travelers: Morocco is warm and welcoming. Be ready for the occasional comment or stare, especially in rural areas. A knowledgeable local guide (we always provide one) makes an enormous difference.

The Gnawa tradition, rooted in sub-Saharan African spiritual practice, was added to UNESCO's list of Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2019. I wrote more about it in Gnawa music and Morocco's Black heritage.

Plan Your Morocco Trip

The Morocco Experience includes a luxury riad in the Marrakech medina, a mountain retreat in the Atlas, a night in a Sahara desert camp, a boutique hotel in Fez, local guides and all ground transfers. If you're still deciding where to start, read my Marrakech or Fez guide.

Book a free consultation and let's design your trip. You deserve to sit in that courtyard with nowhere to be.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Morocco safe for Black travelers?

Yes. Morocco is generally very safe for tourists of all backgrounds.

What's the best time to visit Morocco?

Spring (March to May) and fall (September to November) have the most comfortable temperatures.

How much does a luxury Morocco trip cost?

Our Morocco group trip is on the waitlist while the dates are set, and pricing is announced with the dates. Join the Morocco waitlist.

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About the Author

Claire B. Soares

Claire B. Soares

Founder & Travel Expert

6X Condé Nast Traveler Top Travel Specialist with 65+ countries visited across all 7 continents.

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